Never Looking Back: Dior's S/S 26 Women's Collection

Photo taken by Launchmetrics

In his brief stint as creative director for Dior in both men and womenswear, Johnathan Anderson has already proven he's the man for the job. Earlier this summer we saw his Men's S/S 26 collection. While it showed promise, it wasn't the most demanding showing of style and concept. Now he gets to flaunt his design for womenswear this Paris Fashion Week. If nothing else, this collection makes one thing clear: Johnathan is taking assertive and artistically thoughtful command of Christian Dior.

Photo taken by Launchmetrics

First and foremost, the art direction for this show was spectacular. It opened with a massive three-sided screen, shaped like a pyramid and designed to appear as though it were emerging from a Dior box.. Presumably resembling a magic box from fairytale and folklore. The screen showed a montage of Dior's storied history married with optimistic music, collectively rejoicing in celebration of the brands legacy. However, things take a turn for the dramatic when screams creep their way into the audio and the light hearted video turns into distorted visuals while the sinister sounds prevail. The hype dies down quicker than it began and the magic energy makes its way back into the box as the models take the stage.

The concept for stage design is mind blowing. It comments on Johnathan's reign as creative director by paying respect to what the house has done, and symbolically shutting it away while he's in charge. The magical element of the show is the perfect vehicle to deliver a not so subtle way of saying "I run this shit." It also masterfully plays into the designs of the collection, as it's the first thing you see within 2 seconds of the screen shutting off.

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The S/S 26 Women's collection is weird in all the right ways. The entire thing is basically an homage to 18th century French fashion with some modern flare. We saw some similar looks in the men's collection, but they ramped it up this time around. The hat above (which is reacurring throughout the entire show) speaks for itself. That hat is exactly what Napoleon Bonaparte would have worn back in the day. To address the elephant in the room, it's clear that this collection is geared toward the super wealthy of the time period, and you know what? I'm ok with that. A lot of the designs from that period were boisterous and celebrated exaggerated silhouettes. For years I've been saying someone needs to revist this era of fashion and I'm happy Dior's the one to do it. The outfit above is just one example of crafting elegant yet nonsensical clothing. A blazer that doubles as a bow? It's like an over saturation of formalwear but in a complimentary way. But that's the thing about this collection, there's an obscure familiarity with just about every piece that just makes you wonder.

Photo taken by Launchmetrics

Everywhere you look this collection will make you say "oh?" Whether it's the stiff trench hoodie, the red riding hood cape, or the distinguished lacing you can't help but be gleefully confused by what's happening in front of you. A word I would use to describe the overall execution is balance. Johnathan and the Dior team found a way to be transparent in their influences all while introducing interesting brand defining elements along the way. As artists we are told time and time again that practicality is important in design. I have never agreed with that statement. In fact I think what we're seeing here is purpose over practicality. The vision takes precedence over the desire for utility. That is in a way what formalwear embodies. Looking suave isn't about function, comfort maybe, but not convience in construction.

I truly adore the S/S 26 Women's collection from Dior. Creative direction like this inadvertently dismisses terms like trend setting and taste making by existing for itself. Stunts like opening up with an homage and subtle fuck off is a bold move that will ensure all platforms keep an eye on Johnathan and Dior moving forward. Perhaps he thrives under pressure, and he's stoking the flames. Either way, as long as he can live up to expectations he's setting for himself I think he'll reign victorious.

Favortie looks from the show: